DIY Aauarium

Explore TheSea

 

DIY Aquarium

By Blane Perun

O2 Oxygen Reactor

by aquasite.com

O2 (Oxygen Reactor) DIY

To raise and maintain O2 (Oxygen) at or near saturation levels you will need to buy or build a O2 reactor. This DIY O2 reactor will give you Reef-Like water conditions as related to O2 availability.

Many of you who do not have Reef Tanks want to keep a few corals in a predominately fish tank loaded with live rock or undergravel filters. This DIY is ideal by boosting the O2 saturation levels and overall water quality as found on the natural reefs.

Materials:

Canister material = acrylic cell-cast cylinder 1/8' wall thickness.
Canister diameter 3 to 4' Canister Height 18 to 24'
Buy scrap 1/2' acrylic for bottom plate
Buy scrap 1/4' acrylic for top lid
Buy 1/2' PVC pipe for input/output runs. 1 pc. 18' or 24' depending on height of Canister. 2nd piece 6'.

Buy 1-2 boxes of mini-bio balls. 3/4 gal should fill the canister for a 3' dia. 18' tall canister while 1 to 1-1/4 gal should fill the canister for a 4' dia. 24' tall canister.
Buy a Tetra Luft Pump or similar. Best choice for this pump has HP and is designed for rugged and prolonged use.
Buy 1/4' airline tubing
Buy 5/8' tubing for input/output water lines.
Buy Rio 1700 or similar pump/powerhead. Please don't use a valve on the pump output (run it wide open).
Optional - Media Platform container system. If used, buy eggcrate material (kind you find in hardware store for light fixtures) and cut it to fit within the canister body. You may need to support it off the bottom of the canister by using 3 pieces of Schedule 40 PVC couplings 3/4' or pipe cut to 3/4'. Also cut a hole through the eggcrate where the 1/2' PVC pill will pass through.
Ok here is the diagram which will help you in understanding and construction..

A = Air in from air pump, using an adjustable valve.
B = Water coming in ,1/2' PVC pipe, from sump or aquarium, via a small submersible water pump (Rio or similar).
C = Water coming out ,1/2' PVC pipe, back to aquarium or sump.
D = 1/4' scrap acrylic glued to make a lid. Use acrylic cement or a bonding agent meant for acrylic.
E = Optional - Eggcrate for bio-ball support. Cut to fit into canister. Bottom eggcrate is supported off bottom using three 3/4' PVC couplings or cutting three 3/4' PVC pipe to a length of 1 to 2'. Be sure to cut a hole in eggcrate for 'C' output 1/2' PVC pipe to fit through.
F = 1/2' thick acrylic scrap glued or bonded to bottom of canister. Used as a base for canister to fit on. Again use acrylic cement or a bonding agent meant for acrylic.
G = Water reservoir. Maintain a level of 2-3' deep by adjusting air valve, not the water flow. By adjusting the air valve, this will adjust the air pressure in the canister reactor. The more the air pressure, the lower the water depth in the bottom. Of course this works in reverse.
H = BioBalls, Bio,Pak, BioKaskade, etc. Any plastic media will work here. Shotgun shell wadding (not colored) will also work. The ideas here is to break up the water and allow a thin film of water or a large surface area of water to be 'aerated or 'air-injected'.
I = Highly saturated Oxygen rich water returning to sump or aquarium.
NOTE: AquaSite or Aquatic Etc, Inc. does not guarantee anything. All information is a compilation of our experience and success. We recommend testing of water quality. By your building any DIY projects, you agree to hold AquaSite and Aquatic Etc, Inc. harmless for any damages that may occur.